To my good fortune, which I have had an abundance of lately, the Padang Padang surf contest ran two days before my departure. I was super stoked that I made it down there to see Jamie O'Brien win. It was an amazing barrelling left with great conditions. It was nice to be back on the surf scene and being here has made me really miss Hawaii. It may be time to take a trip back out there soon. For a long time, I didn't feel like I wanted to go back. Too sad? But now it seems like I could use that long paddle out to Publics! Aloha.
No comments:
Post a Comment